Archives for : Wargaming

Mantic’s Dreadball

Last year, on Kickstarter I pledged in on Mantic’s Dreadball. Now, I love Bloodbowl and the chance for another miniatures based game even remotely like it thrilled me to my core. What I got, was a surprise – depsite the vids I’d watched, the research I had done and the conversations with mates; Dreadball was a much more different beast to what I was expecting. It was way more awesome than I thought it would be!

Ignore Bloodbowl for a moment, maybe you remember an old, old game that some of you might have had on an Amiga, this game was called Speedball. Take that, put it on a  board, make that hex-based, add in some alternate races (Orks, Humans, Rat-men, Dwarves, etc.) and that’s Dreadball!

This is a game where you can use the ball to attack other players. This is a game where Star players on really get used in tournaments. This is a game where you can paint up the human team like this!

Ok so the basics:

  •  Each team gets 6 players on the pitch (you can stick more on but be prepared for your opponent to call foul!. There are three main types of player (Stryker, Jack and Guard) – there is a fourth (Keeper but they are special!)
  • Each turn each team gets a set of counters for actions  – you can spend an action token to stand a guy up, bring a guy on from the sidelines, run/dash a player, throw a pass/score, slam a player, draw a card. Now where this token thing gets interesting is that some of these actions can trigger other actions depending on how successful you are or what type of player you are. Eg. A stryker can declare and spend points on a pass and also get a run out of it as well. A Guard can declare a slam and also get a run.
  • I mentioned cards before, well they can be used to gain additional actions instead of spending a token), showboat (chance for fan cheers) or encounter a new event – which can do odd or even fun things like break balls!)
  • Tests in Dreadball are fairly simple – roll a number of d6 (usually 3), modified dependent on action and sort of player (Guard, Stryker, Jack) and any cards you play. Roll those dice and for each one that scores higher than the stat being tested (skill for pickups, dodges and passes; Strength for slams, move for extra squares, etc. etc.) you count as a success. 6s explode upwards – so count it as a success and roll again – get another 6 and it’s lather, rinse, repeat.
  • There’s plenty more but I’ll stop there.

Mantic’s Kickstarter went so well, that they managed to fund two additional seasons for Dreadball (each season adds more teams and star players). The teams are fun; each plays in a unique way so switching between them will give you an entirely new experience.

Personally, I can see that this game will continue to grow and build momentum – I hope you’ll give it a chance and try it out.

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Privateer Press – Warmachine

Last August (2012) I decided to finally get off the Games Workshop bandwagon and give some other wargames a go. Now I’ve always liked the look of Privateer Press’s Warmachine game, so I figured what the hell?

I approached my local Press-ganger and asked him to teach me how to play.

Now I don’t know if you know much about Warmachine, so forgive me if I repeat stuff you already know. Warmachine is a steampunk esque game mixing giant steam powered robots with magic. The factions are pretty straight forward, you have the gunline and electricity loving Cygnar, the undead soul munching Cryxx, the relgious ‘burn the heathens’ Menoth, the Soviet-esque brute force and cold Khador and the ancient and shielded Scyrah. Each faction has its own favourite weapons and tactics, but somehow its all really well balanced. (As a separate aside, Hordes, PPs fantasy wargame, is completely compatible with Warmachine – the only differences are in damage and the primary power mechanic – focus for Warmachine, Fury for Hordes. However if you know how to play one, you can play the other! The other really ncie thing is you CAN play Hordes vs Warmachine and it is still balanced though with different power curves; however I’ll talk about Hordes and the power curves in a later post).

So for my demo game, I grabbed a Cygnar whilst my Pressganger grabbed Menoth. We used the basic ~£30 battlebox (each contains a warcaster and a 2-3 Jacks – Jacks are the steam powered robots of awesome).

Anyway, my press-ganger did his job, was suitably enthusiastic and explained the mechanics and rules really well, I even won the game. So I signed up for our local wargames club’s Journeyman league.

A Journeyman league is a fantastic way to get into Warmachine/Hordes. It’s a 6 week league with points for games played/won and points for painting your models (I love this idea)! Basically choose a faction and buy the battlebox – in week 1 you use this. In week 2 you now have a budget of 15 points (A battlebox is about 15 points, some just slightly under) so you can add a solo to the team if you wish but you must still use the models in the battlebox. Week three bumps the points to 25 – still using the stuff in the battlebox, but now you can add some neat stuff like infantry, some more solos, maybe even another jack if you want. In Week 4, it remains at 25 points but you can replace the warcaster from the battlebox with any other warcaster for your faction – you still have to keep the rest of the box though. In Week 5 points climb again, to 35 (pretty much what I think is standard points for most games), you can use either of your casters but you have to keep on using the battlebox. In Week 6, the final week, you can go nuts 35 points, free for all on the faction model choices.

Now, I was the newest player for our league,  was outclassed by everyone else who was playing – I won 1 game out of the 8-9 I managed to fit in over that time but I came first for the painting ( decided o go with purple over the usual Cygnar blue – see the bottom of this post for some examples (I’ll discuss the paint scheme later too)). The points that got me propelled me to 2nd/3rd in the league – not bad for a noob, plus I learned a on about playing Cygnar.

In terms of how Warmachine compares to 40k, well, I like both. 40k has a simplicity of tactics that makes it much easier to learn; generally you go towards the enemy and first one to charge usually wins, in my experience this is not true for Warmachine. However, as with all warames, the movement phase is the most important. In 40k you can be sloppy and the game will forgive you; in Warmachine the movement for each of your models, the order in which they activate (each model gets to move, then do an action like punch someone, cast a spell, shoot, etc. before you do the same for the next mode, until all  your models have activated), all of which can be critical and Warmachine does not forgive you for making mistakes.

It may sound like Warmachne is just plain nasty when described like that but I’d argue that its closer to the equivalent of going from playing with duplo to lego – both are fun, but we all know that lego is for the big boys and gals, who know the basics of how it should fit together.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to insult 40k – what it does, it does really well, but for me, and this is just an opinion, I’m drifiting away from it, mostly on principles but I’ll discuss that in a later post I think as it’s a tad to detracting to put here.

In any case, don’t take it from me – get out to your local clubs, find out who your local press-ganger is and ask for a demo game – join a Journeyman league. Just give it a try.

Oh, and by the way, now is a good time to do this. Privateer Press announced a new faction earlier this month – looks kinda like cyborg spell casters to me – all very awesome looking and as part of it, PP are doing a year long story campaign split over four seasons, each lasting a month, to introduce them. Go check out the preview video for the Convergence of Cyriss on youtube.

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Dreadstone Blight

So I picked up a Dreadstone Blight tower a while back and finally got round to painting it this weekend.

I used this link as a guide to give me an idea on a number of the details, but I decided to use the same paint scheme I used for the Dreadfleet scenery (Necron Abyss blue for base colour and dry brush Shadow Grey on top) off the stone work.

Here’s some of the pics from the work:

Dreadfleet – The Bloody Reaver

 

Otherwise known as the Bloody Hard paint job…..

The Bloody Reaver was the ship I wanted to save until I’d had some ‘practice’ – reason being, this is the largest, most demanding ship for Dreadfleet, and, ultimately the hardest paint job for me yet. The Reaver is filled with detail, from the wrecks comprising it’s hull, to the Fortress to the small anchors and various stone effects, all of it needs to be done with great care and precision….

I decided early on that there was no way I could rush this thing through in one night, it would be a job of several evenings and in the end took me 8 hours, spread over 3 days to get this done to the level it’s now at.

I started with a Chaos Black undercoat and got the base prepped as I described in my earlier post.

bloody-reaver-undercoat

I then went over all the rock with Adeptus Battlegrey – as you will note from the pics I did this before I assembled everything so I could get right down into the features.

bloody-reaver-rocks-base

This was then washed down with a 1:1 ratio of Devlan Mud and Badab Black washes.

bloody-reaver-rocks-washed

After that I decided to pick out the anchors – for this I wanted to apply a rust effect….

bloody-reaver-rust

Now in the midst of all this stone work, you can’t forget about the cavern entrance (like I did….ahem…,) so after the rust effects, I went back to the cavern and applied the same initial rock effects to it as well. When it dried, I applied the finishing touches to all of  the rock effects by dry brushing them with Fortress Grey.

bloody-reaver-skull

 

After that, I moved on to paint the wrecks, for this I used base colours of Mechrite Red, Mordian Blue, Gnarloc Green and (because I like the colour) Hormagaunt Purple. Gold effects were base coated using a 1:1 ratio of Scorched Brown and Shining Gold. I then washed down the wrecks with Devlan Mud.

bloody-reaver-wrecks-base-coats

bloody-reaver-mid-completion

Whilst waiting for the wash to dry, I decided to apply my bone effect method to the ribs sticking out of the rock and the spars out of the front of the fortress. I then went back and finished the base, picking out the ship wrecks in Scorched Brown and the ripped sails in Mechrite Red and Bleached Bone.

bloody-reaver-base

After all that, I went back over the wrecks with Scab Red, Mordian Blue and Gnarloc green to strengthen up the colours and re-applied Shining Gold to the fittings. I then painted the spars of wood, the decking and the dirt path with Calthan Brown and washed it with Devlan Mud. I the dry brushed the dirt path with Snakebite Brown for some added texture.  With the sea monster on the prow I did it in gold, filled the eye socket with Goblin Green and added a small dot of Scorpion Green. When all of that was completed, I followed White Dwarf 382’s guide on painting the fortress, roofs and towers.

bloody-reaver-bone-effect-2

 

At this stage I was two-thirds complete, I just needed to finish the sails and put it all together. To do this I started by painting the sails with Liche Purple, the drybrushed them with Warlock Purple.

bloody-reaver-sails

I then went over the iconography with Bleached Bone followed by a light wash of Gryphonne Sepia followed again by a light coat of Bleached Bone. I then took a fineline pen and put the ship’s name on the sail name plate before applying another Gryphonne Sepia wash over the lettering. The pennants were done with a blending of Mechrite Red through to Blazing Orange at the tips.

bloody-reaver-complete-1

Rust Effects

No piccies, just a quick talk through on how I learned to do it.

  1. Base coat your area of rust in Bestial Brown.
  2. When dried, stipple Macharias Solar Orange on top of it leaving areas of brown showing through….
  3. When that dries (really quick) apply small splodges of Boltgun metal (note this is the only metalic colour you use for this technique).
Jobs a good ‘un!